Thread: New Rotax Line maint. manual

Here is the link to the new Rotax Line Maint. manual. You need this for the simple things and for the inspection check list. They did not just add a few pages. There are some significant changes.
You should print this and keep it or give it to the next A&P to look at before your inspection. He should use the inspection list in the manual. Have him print it, use it, sign it and give it back to you. You should do the same thing for the FD inspection form. You should make yourself a binder and keep these inspection forms. They are documentation that the right things were done. The new manual also states that the inspection check list must be kept for records. I'm sure they wanted this to make sure you are good to go for that new 2000 TBO.
The 25 hr. is required to be airworthy and keep your warranty.(still)
I still like to old check list because it is more detailed and thorough. After I have a nice evening reading this manual, I'll see if I can't comment on some of the bigger changes. Looks like the gearbox inspection went from 800 hrs. to 1000 hrs.
Oil changes are now in writing for 50 hours. I think the one bad thing they did was put in 100 hr. plug change, 75 hr. is far better. I have seen plugs not doing very well at 100 hrs. and especially with 100LL. Rotax school used to teach 75 hr. They used to print 100 hr plug changes many years ago, but people got away from that. They changed the new gap settings too, .023 - .027.


All discrepancies are supposed to now be recorded and kept with the maint inspection info.
Those of you that have been coming to me for your maint. the last few years, aren't you glad I gave those discrepancy reports, Rotax check list and FD check list and made you keep it.
Start making those inspectors whomever they may be do a good job of documentation.

http://www.rotax-owner.com/manualsintro.htm

Boy I just had a wonderful evening reading the new Rotax Line Maint manual cover to cover. I know I need a life. LOL
There are some changes, some good and some not so good or smart.

Hey Roger what do you think of 200 hour plug lives now? that's what they now state for exclusive mogas operation which i have been on so far. I have a friend with a 912uls and he never even agreed with 100 changes not to mention 75 hours. His reasoning was that plugs lives and faults in motor cars are very favourable to long change intervals. Thinking that there are serious differences in operating regime, I demurred and said until I know more than Rotax I'm going by the book. But it turns out his (guess?, opinion? knowledge?) now equals the new Rotax recommendation?

You can see my 100 hour plugs here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/jm283353...H100HrService#

and the funny thing is that their conditions balance left and right indicating good carburetor balance, but front to back the front pair of plugs are richer/blacker, and top to bottom (lower plugs to the left of each pair) the upper ones are richer. My guess is the mixing length from the carb jets to the manifold split is too short leading to a partial mixing effect. So the fuel goes headlong down the straight run, while the mixture that turns early into nos 2 & 4 is leaner.

Hi John,

(My personal opinion and others may differ and that's ok.)

I saw your pictures. A couple of things I noticed. You have or had engine sag. The pictures of the cowl contact and the engine hitting the radiator. Make sure the engine ring mount bolts (4) are torqued properly and the through the fire wall bolts (6) are torqued properly. My first bet is the engine ring mount bolts were or are really loose. The rubber engine mount isolators that are cracked need to be replaced. I can actually get to the two bottom outside ones without pulling the entire engine, but it has to come out a little ways. You will need an engine hoist. It may not be just one of these things, but a combo adding to the sag. The washer you have pointed out in the picture is normal and you have different amounts of them on both sides. These help align the engine. Don't ever change the amount of washers on any of the 6 bolts through the fire wall. The bottom cowl mount isn't welded like it used to be on older models it is pop riveted on now. As far as the plugs go. Rotax has technically had a 100 hr. change for many years. But many people found that going that long was causing a few issues. Nothing bad just poor running. Rotax schools recommended a 75 hr. change was much better. So then this new item came out that pulling them at 100 hrs. cleaning and gaping at 100 was ok then run up to 200 hrs. The little problem I see in this is that if Rotax thought it was so important before to change at 100 or less then why did they change. You could argue that they have more experience, but they had hundreds of thousands of hrs of experience before that too. I just got out of the new Rotax update school for repairman and we discussed this very subject. Being that oil and plugs are the life blood of your engine and what can make or break you in flight it was still recommended by the factory rep. Rotax instructor that 75 to 100 was still in your best interest. I change at 75 hrs and I use all 91 oct. auto fuel. Will I ever go to 100, I don't know. 200 hrs. is just way too long. It is especially too long if you use 100LL. The black dry soot plugs are caused by idle and the different lengths of the air intake to each cyl. They are not like that at much higher engine rpms and nothing to worry over.

What I don't see on your plugs is heat conducting paste?

I just removed a set of plugs for someone during the annual and whoever put those in used a little anti seize (not allowed) and torqued them in really good. It took all my strength to brake 3 of them loose. I thought I was going to brake a plug or my wrench. They had been in for well over 150 hrs.

Hi Roger
I am pretty baffled what to do with the plugs. Oh heck I think i'll stay 100 hours for now but I dont really think its needed. Either Rotax know or they dont. But they have a good reputation not to put us astray, so 200 hours ( I always use mogas) should be fine. Question: how would I notice poor running? At 100 hours it still seems OK, "I think".

The drop on the engine is 0.5 of a degree; I dont have the specs to hand but the engine is within them as at last annual about 6 months ago. What would be worthwhile is to use torque seal over the indent on the radiator and keep a watchful eye on it. Oliver at P & M had a look at the engine mount photos and said just keep it under observation. So far no significant deterioration, and the plane is running smoothly.

Those plugs are the originals from the factory I suppose. I do use the Wacker P12 paste, sparingly, just enough to fill 2/3 of the threads prior to insertion. If they get removed they get a little more put on.