Thread: New Oil Pressure Valve

Rotax is now switching from a ball valve PN-432-680 to a cone shaped valve PN-857-230. According to the charts sent over with this info, the new valve will result in a higher average oil pressure accross the entire range of RPMs. This product has been under develope for the past two years and IS NOT A MANDATORY RETROFIT nor is it covered under warranty.

Well how much is it. How hard is it to put in, etc., etc.

Very Very easy to install but should be installed by a trained technician. The Hex shaped bolt on the bottom of your oil pump, next to your filter, is removed and the spring and old ball valve drop out, just inspect the spring and install the new cone shaped valve in then make sure and torque the Hex bolt back to spec to prevent any leaks and of course don't forget your safety wire. I don't have a price as of yet because for some Rotax has a habit of releasing this kind of information before parts and prices are are sent to the Service Centres. As soon as I know you guys will know.

I have just received my replacement for the "ball" in the regulator and although I have posted a photo elsewhere in this forum I thought I would also show it here.
The unit is about 1" long with a hole down the middle that stops about 1/16" before the end of the stem.

Have just finished installing new part (857-230) into the Oil Pressure Regulator and the subsequent engine run-up was a joy to behold. Certainly has fixed the fluctuating oil pressures for me. Here is what I recorded during a static run-up (oil temps above 50ºC)...

2000 RPM 38 psi (2.6 bar).
3500 RPM 44 psi (3 bar).
4500 RPM 47 psi (3.2 bar).
5200 RPM 54 psi (3.7 bar).

With both increasing and decreasing power settings the oil pressure changes were smooth and what can best be described as precise.

Fitting took all of 5 mins including re-doing the tie-wiring. A small amount of oil dribbles from the hole so use plenty of towels to catch the oil spill or it goes all over and through the radiators. Hope FD can meet the demand.

All I can say is.... thanks to Rotax, you've done a great job in fixing what has been a very annoying problem.

I have been trying to get the new valve , but lockwood aviation in sebring fl says it is still not available...I have been having oil pressure problems for at least 6 or 8 months jumping all over the place..proved they were false but sure getting tired of the flashing red light...I don't know when the new valve will get to the usa.....Am A ctsw owner.....STEVE

Hi Guys.
I too seem to have a similar problem in the UK. My engine is nearly 100hrs (94) and I also get a decrease in "indicated" pressure on my Dynon. I have also checked the wiring and connection - all ok. The problem seems quite intermitant but only decreases in pressure on increase in RPM, BUT only seems to occur on the ground, typically 2-3k PRM will give 2.6 -3 Bar, but on acceleration it "sometimes" decreases to 2 Bar or just below (indicted yellow warning on the Dynon). The oil temps all seem fine with no signif increase.
Strangely it never seems to happen in flight??? During flight at say 4800 it does fluctuate slightly between 2.2-3 bar but never below.
Anyway my simple question is this, not knowing how the valve being discussed works, is the oil pressure in the engine actually decreasing or is it just the reading and is this whole issue going to cause any long term engine problems?

Rgds Mr P

I've had this update on order for more than a year here in the states, so far no results. Eric Tucker discussed this problem in the 912 level II training more than a year ago and this is supposedly the fix. Hopefully we will see it soon.

I have the same problem as Mr. P. My pressure drops to 38psi on roll out and climb but jumps back to normal (155) when the oil temperature reaches 160F? Started at 100 hours on hobbs.

MrP, don't confuse fluctuating oil pressure with wildly varying oil pressure.

The new part in your oil regulator will fix fluctuating oil pressure... I've fitted it and it works just great.

Wildly varying oil pressure sounds more like a sender problem to me. I would advise checking the oil pressure sender as your next move - I have published the correct resistance readings at various pressures elsewhere in this forum. Any cheap ammeter will allow you to check the resistance at various oil pressure levels.

I bought a VDO sender of exactly the same type and part number as the one fitted as original equipment to my aircraft at a fraction of the price. The local Rotax agent explained how to remove the brass ring (see following photos) and install on the new sender prior to installation. Remove the old sender and heat the brass ring with a heat gun. It takes a significant amount of heating. Eventually the ring will come away. Clean it up and when cool attach to the new sender using silicone. After the silicone is dry refit the sender. No one will be able to tell the new part from the original part.

Hope this helps.

New VDO part approx $75 as against Rotax part at $275!