Thread: Ctls234z

Hello CT flyers. My name is Jeff Campbell and am the proud owner of a 2009 CTLS, N234Z. I live in Albuquerque, NM and base my plane about 20 miles south at MidValley airpark (E9. I have logged approximately 30 hours in the CT and am enjoying the advanced avionics. Had a recent issue with a coolant leak. Picked up during a run-up as the L cylinder head temps headed into the yellow band. Shut it down and did some trouble shooting. Turns out that the radiator was dry despite the fact that the overflow reservoir is full. Filled the radiator from the cap and temps were fine. Got out and found a very small leak (in the worst possible place) a connection between the firewall and the engine. Can't see it clearly, but there are a few drops leaking out. Hope to meet many of you in the future at flyins.

Hi Jeff,

Most of the leaks are from the screw clamps on the coolant hoses. Tighten all these, there are about 5-6 of them. The only bad place to see a leak is out the water pump housing. A few drops here and there out the weep hole is perfectly normal, but if you have huge puddles on the floor then the water pump seal has to be replaced. We won't even go there for now. It's not something you want to hear. So unless it is the seal then you can tighten most leaks.

Thanks Roger.
Next weekend I'll take an extension mirror to the plane and see if I can find a way to tighten the clamp where it appears to be leaking. I've already tightened the accessible one.

Jeff,

There are some on top, too. Put a screwdriver to all. Do the same for any oil screw clamps around the radiator. You will find them all need a turn or two. Untill the rubber finially smashes all the way down after a couple of hundred hours they may (or may not) seep. I always put a screwdriver on all of them at all inspections.

Browsing through the forums, I came across a similar problem where someone noted their overflow reservoir was full after a flight while under the radiator cap was empty. This was determined to be a radiator cap failure. Mine should be a 1.2bar cap. Is there anyway to check if it's working correctly? A new one is $80+
Thanks

A new cap from Rotax is only $32. Where did you get $80?

Not sure what site listed $80, but found it at California Power Systems for $32.35. Do you know if part number 922-075 is the 1.2bar cap? They don't state anything but the price and item number in their online catalog.
Thanks

Jeff, "hi" from Michigan.