Thread: low voltage warning with landing light

So, I do love my CT but as an EE, the electrical system does indeed leave much to be desired. Not the least of which is the inablity to properly charge the PC310. Being an engineer, I measured the quiescent draw; it is 5mA spiking up to 15mA every few seconds, undoubtedly by the EFIS waking up to check on status. This will seriously deplete the little battery in one month of rainy weather here in N Cal. Since I'm tied down with no AC power handy, I make this little schottkey blocked 13.8V trickle solar charger to at least keep the battery OK. It is 0.75W so only 50mA in bright sun, but with clouds and off-axis illumination, it averages more like 7mA over a 24hr period so about cancels the plane draw. As soon as I get the 9V MR-16 LED bulb then I might be able to land at night without the low voltage and low oil pressure alarms (the worthless VDO pressure sender is a complete POS that is very input voltage sensitive too) screeming at me.

Chanik, is that bulb "plug and play" or do you have to alter it to fit in any way? Did you get the "white" or "warm white"? I'm jumping on this ASAP when you get back to me.

John

Warm is ~20% dimmer than the cold (bluer) LEDs. Make sure you get a shorter one that fits in the cowl bracket and they drop right in. Like these:
http://www.ledcentral.com.au/online-...category_id=15
Ideally, the system needs use a charger/regulator that specifically smart charges AGM batteries but I think I'd be making the bird experimental if I made one to do that.

Chanik, I believe that the CTek 3300 charger operates at 14.7V DC and 3A until it senses that the charging current has dropped and then maintains the battery with a low amperage pulse and monitors the voltage. If voltage drops, it will go back into charge mode. It is temperature compensated and is recommended for AGM batteries like the Odyssey.
http://www.ctek.com/Manuals/new_US3300_EN.pdf.

Is this the method of charge you recommend? There are a couple of PC310's I know of that are considered NFG. Perhaps this charger will bring these batteries back to life.

This charger seems very good, but I meant a circuit that interfaced to the Rotax alternator and performed proper charging WHILE the plane was operating. Not hard to make one, but it would be an unauthorized mod, I'm sure

Chanik, I picked up the LED light and was wondering if there were any problems installing it? It's a little larger than the stock bulb and is it a simple plug and play or did you have to alter it to get it installed. Thanks again, John

warmer LED light has less of a blue content, but it is the ability of blue light to cause iris reaction that causes the perception of being brighter.
Bottom line, at night, the warm light is probably as good as the cool one, and possibly better.

Originally Posted by Patrnflyr

Chanik, I picked up the LED light and was wondering if there were any problems installing it? It's a little larger than the stock bulb and is it a simple plug and play or did you have to alter it to get it installed. Thanks again, John

It is about 3/16" longer. I installed it with a piece of clear tape over the front just to keep water out and didn't the thick glass so then I can readily tighten down the bolts. If you want to use the glass plate then I think you'd want 1/4" longer bolts. Don't forget to use loctite in any case.

Anyway, the flakey oil pressure and temp readings were the result of untightened grounding bolts (the two up on the passenger side firewall behind the panel). Just like Roger thought.

Chanik:

DON'T PUT TAPE ON THE FRONT OF THE LED LANDING LIGHT! There are air holes in the front of the light and exhaust slits in the side, and it seems pretty clear that the goal is to circulate cooling air through the light assembly. I am afraid you will burn your light up with tape on the front. - WF