Thread: Leaky doors

Hi Guys,

Just a tip for the day.

If you have any cold air that seems to come in from around the door jam especially around the leg area here is a very cheap and easy fix.
Head to the local Ace Aviation or Tru-Value Aviation store (aka Ace Hardware or Tru-Value) and pick up some soft foam stripping with the self stick back. Do not use the rubberized foam it is too thick and firm. This soft foam will go right around the edges of the door and just tucks under the regular door seal. This fills any air gaps and seals the cabin very well from cold drafts. Then I use clear 3" tape to cover the port holes up above our heads. The clear tape still allows for visual inspections and fuel site tube viewing. Once this is done I can fly in 20F weather in short sleeves with the heater of course. If you have any drafts in the cabin then I'm sure you don't think the heater works well, but once the cabin is sealed the heater can drive you to open a vent. Making sure the cabin is well sealed makes it a nice cozy comfortable cold weather environment.

Thanks Roger,

Always great tips! I just wanted to add the following. In the winter time with a nice sealed up cabin and the heater going, make sure you have a fresh carbon monoxide detector in your cockpit. Monitor it and your body regularly during flight. Carbon monoxide can be deadly and comes from the exhuast system which we use for heating the air entering the cockpit thru the heater. It is colorless and odorless (though exhaust fumes may be present) and can cause you to pass out or die, or both in a high enough dose. If you feel your getting a headache, or sick to you stomach, or light headed shut the heater off, open the vents and if possible descend to a lower altitude.

Regards

Eric Swisher
Copper City Aviation Services

Just one more idea on "operation seal-up". The last 2 winters I've sealed up as much as possible, excuting all the obvious holes. Behind the seats where the passages are, I cut some 2" foam rubber to seal it up. The foam could not fit any better on its own. I did not realize how drafty it was. Coming back from Idaho Falls the other night the OAT was 11F @ 10,500' and I had to crack the vent Thanks again Roger L. for the o-rings.

Hi 89WD,

Did the "O" rings work out ok?

Won't know till Bob looks at 'em. Thanks for the 2 of 'em.

Originally Posted by Roger Lee

Just a tip for the day.
[...]
Then I use clear 3" tape to cover the port holes up above our heads. The clear tape still allows for visual inspections and fuel site tube viewing.
[...]

Or you can try this to cover inspection holes: plexiglas 1mm thick with velcro narrow strips.

Regards,
Alec

Now thats custom! That really looks good, Nice job.

I have allways taped around the spar attach bolts, and it looks like hell. Is this where you are using the "o" rings? If so what size are they and where can we get them? This is for a CTLS, but i'm sure its the same as the SW. Also on the foam around the door, are you attaching it to the door or the cabin? ***** has it rite by putting the seal on the door instead of the cabin, less chance to distort from entry and exit of occupants.

Hi Texwis,

The o-rings from Roger were for a whole other issue. They are for my OEM Italian brake calipers.....anyway the foam rubber I was refering to is 2" thick foam that fits perfectly behing the seats and curtain going into the baggage compartment. In the compartment side I've cut out the exact pattern of the opening and inserted the foam on the ledge provided from the mold of the opening. It really seals off the drafty cabin. I too use clear 2" wide tape over the inspection holes, fuel site holes, etc. I did use some of the foam to seal off around the spar bolts openings. The plexiglass and velcro idea appears more custom and has a "factory" look. I enjoy learning how other CTers personilize their birds.

TEXWIS,
Do you have the pictures of your flap rod seals?