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Thread: 696 and AP problems- nothing major

  1. #1
    Patrnflyr is offline Senior Member
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    Default 696 and AP problems- nothing major

    I thought you all would like to know a problem that came up with my 696 and FD AP. We've finally got all the little "new CT" bugs out except for the AP and the Garmin. The FD AP has some pixels that are out so a whole vertical line or two is out. Tulsa Tom contacted them at Oshkosh and the mfg said that they found out around 50 of the tiny AP screens have this problem and they are working on a fix over the next couple of months, hopefully by my 100 hr inspection. A sub contracting vendor was the root cause of this... Should be corrected soon!

    Now, on to the 696. Everything's been A OK until I booted up the system once a month ago and my 696 screen appeared to not turn on at all. However, the sun glared into the plane onto the screen and I could read, "Garmin" and "software missing". It was completely dead and no keys would change it. Neither did a reboot several times. I finally decided to take my laptop out to the plane with the latest software and upgrade to the newest, and that seemed to work. No more problems with the GPS for awhile, but last week, I went to start up and the Garmin software missing warning came back on. Nothing I did could get that darn thing to boot up even when I know the software was current and worked. So, I went home to get my laptop and try to reboot the new software upgrade. When I powered up the avionics this time (after a 60 mile round trip), the Garmin booted up perfectly without me even touching it!!! By this time, I'm starting to get a little flustered and am worrying what to do up in Page when this does it there.

    Well, I called TTjr who talked with Garmin up at OSH and they said to send it in for a replacement. I also called Garmin support and ask the guy if he's ever heard the 696 doing this. He said, "Before this week - 0, since Monday, -3" He said to also send it in and that's where it is now. Just wanted for you all to be on the lookout in case it ever occurs.

    John
    John and Julie Johnson
    Lubbock, TX
    N227CT (CTLS)
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  2. #2
    Jim Stewart is offline Senior Member
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    Sounds like a temperature problem. Has it been hot?

  3. #3
    Patrnflyr is offline Senior Member
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    Yes, but it's always hot in Texas. Nothing much though, only about 80 degrees since I have been starting it up in the early morning. Haven't tried to fly when it's 100 degrees since I don't want to sound like a BB in a tin can!
    John and Julie Johnson
    Lubbock, TX
    N227CT (CTLS)
    Wave #5

  4. #4
    CharlieTango's Avatar
    CharlieTango is offline Senior Member
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    the binnacle is all black and not vented. my big efis now has a big cooling fan. it reports internal temps, if i climb out on a 100 degree day and a big climb the cooling fan isn't enough. my 496 has never been effected by the heat but a 696 might generate a lot more.

    i would like to redo my panels and or binnacle to be ventilated.

  5. #5
    Patrnflyr is offline Senior Member
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    Got the 696 back and is installed. It interfaces also with the AP. They'll replace the AP facing pixelation problem at its 100 hr.

    Now, I'm having one more LITTLE problem and I think all the little things should be taken care. The D120 EMS is dead. I talked to TTjr and he called Dynon yesterday. The D120 just won't boot up. However, the PFD and GPS do. Let me just show you the email but I've decided to turn it over to my avionics guy on Monday. I just don't have the time... It has something to do with an internal calendar/clock system that's in the 120 that's no longer needed and may run down the battery. I put my "Lockwood" battery charger on the plane last night to see if this would help, but still nothing this morning.

    Here's the email:

    It is very important that the keep-alive wire be removed from the Dynon D120 EMS if the software is updated to 4.0 or higher. Failure to remove the keep alive wire with S/W 4.0 or higher will eventually cause the D120 to fail to boot, resulting in a loss of all engine instruments. The D120 keep-alive wire is on pin 2 in the 37 pin connector on the back of the D120. It is normally connected to the left Ammeter shunt sensor terminal, via an in-line fuse. (remove this fuse)

    Earlier models may not have this fuse. If you have the fuse, the easiest way to remove the keep alive is to remove the fuse, otherwise disconnect the wire, and properly secure the loose end. Finally, verify the function of the ammeter, if the ammeter goes full scale, then reinstall, and remove the other wire connected to the left side of the ammeter shunt.

    The ammeter shunt is located behind the panel on the cabin side of the firewall just to the left of center on the top.

    For versions 4.0 and higher the battery in the D100 EFIS takes over the functions of the D120 EMS keep alive via the DSAB bus.


    I'll get through this... I think this is the last thing on my squawk list. Can't wait!


    Anybody heard of this?

    John
    John and Julie Johnson
    Lubbock, TX
    N227CT (CTLS)
    Wave #5

  6. #6
    Roger Lee is offline Senior Member
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    Default Keep Alive

    This is an easy to do item. Just remove the panel with the D120, on the back of the 120 you'll see the big 25 pin serial connector. The number 2 pin I believe is the yellow wire, but the number is printed on the plug. Just snip it with a pair of cutters secure the wire and your done. It takes just a few minutes and the best thing is you don't have to give a shop your money.

  7. #7
    Patrnflyr is offline Senior Member
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    After you snip it, does it revert back to booting up on its own or do you have to do anything else? Have you had to do this to other planes? I may need to call you if I may...

    John
    John and Julie Johnson
    Lubbock, TX
    N227CT (CTLS)
    Wave #5

  8. #8
    Roger Lee is offline Senior Member
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    Default Keep Alive wire

    I have cut mine and 3 others. I cut mine one day when it was acting up, but it ended up being a programing issue that went back to Dynon to fix. I was only down 1 week. Dynon did a fast turn around. Unless something else is actually wrong it should work just fine after it is cut.

  9. #9
    Patrnflyr is offline Senior Member
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    I guess I'll go out tomorrow after church and take the panel off. If it looks pretty simply, I'll go after it. If not, I'll take some pics and come back with questions. Thanks again, as always, for your helpful advice.

    John
    John and Julie Johnson
    Lubbock, TX
    N227CT (CTLS)
    Wave #5

  10. #10
    Roger Lee is offline Senior Member
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    Default Keep alive wire

    John,

    Take something like a magnifying glass or something simular. The numbers on the serial plug are kind of small, at least for me they were.

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